Nepal

I was riding slowly just past the town of Butwal on the Siddhartha Highway when it happened. The traffic within city limits was much more chaotic and concentrated than the twisty mountain roads so I took it slow. I was riding along and just passed a minor intersection when I noticed a girl holding her bicycle in the middle of the road. I became cautious, anticipating any sudden movements by her or traffic around me. She looked up and saw me, we made eye contact and I relaxed a bit figuring she noticed my approach. However, at the last moment she bolted in front of me and with heavy traffic around me I could not swerve in time. So I braked as heavily and as safely as I could, hoping there would be enough stopping distance, and braced for impact.

The motorcycle struck her bicycle's back wheel at around 10-15km/hr and it wobbled for a second before I managed to stabilize it. I pulled over, took off my sunglasses, my helmet and my balaclava. I dismounted from the motorcycle and started walking back. I saw the girl walking her bicycle to the side of the road. Since she didn't seem to have any major injuries, my first emotion was that of relief. I noticed there were some people talking to her and, upon seeing my approach, they seemed surprised that I had actually stopped. I walked over and asked her three times if she was okay and she indicated she was unhurt. Her confirmation greatly relieved my fears and concerns. Her bicycle's back-wheel frame was bent out-of-shape; it would require a replacement but otherwise no major work would be required.

I believed the accident wasn't my fault since I did everything I could to avoid the incident. However, I was a realist and knew I would get squeezed (asked/suggested/blackmailed to pay a damage fee) since I was a foreigner. Within 5 minutes, a man who was trying to take leadership of the situation said, "Okay, give 1000 Rupees." I laughed, 1000 NRs (~$15 CDN) was slightly more than 6 times the rate of my hotel room in Pokhara! First of all, I didn’t think I should pay for any damages at all and, furthermore, 1000 NRs was ludicrous and I told him that. When he threatened to call the police, I strongly considered waiting for them to arrive and settle the matter. I think the representative was very taken aback when I didn’t panic at his threat and strongly considered it. After five minutes of wrangling, we took the bicycle to a repair shop and asked a mechanic to assess the damages and cost of repair. Once again, I knew I would probably not get an honest quote since I couldn’t understand Nepali. On the way to the bike shop, I asked a younger onlooker if he agreed that 1000 NRs was too much. He seemed to agree and said maybe 600-700 NRs would be closer. As I expected, after having a conversation with the mechanic, the main representative told me that it would cost 1000 NRs for all the parts and repairs required. I laughed, he was definitely getting a cut of the money so I said, "No." He then thought about it and revised the price down to 800 NRs. I thought this obviously showed that he wasn't exactly truthful but since I needed to get to Lumbini before sundown I took out 1000 NRs and asked for 200 back. But after he took the 1000, he refused and said, "No, 1000 NRs! 200 NRs for repairs." Now I was angry, there wasn't much I could do except to wait for the police but I didn't have the time. In my last ditch effort at trying to make things more positive, I took the money back and gave it to the girl directly hoping she could spend it on repairs and keep the extra that would've gone to the translator/middleman/scum. But not even a second after that, she handed it immediately to the representative and I became even more enraged and chuckled. I even became cynical enough to wonder whether this whole event was a scam and whether I should have stopped or not. Before leaving for my destination, I asked for directions to Lumbini to confirm. It was the most expensive directions I've ever gotten.

When I got back to Petrova, the name of my rental motorcycle (Bajaj Pulsar 180cc), I was glad to see there didn't seem to be any damage to the bike. I rode away pissed-off but, remembering the lesson from my motorcycle safety course regarding emotions influencing safety, I tried not to dwell on the incident.

Due to the incident, I was somewhat down for the rest of the day but I tried to think optimistically. I thought to myself, the most important thing was that no one was hurt, the bike sustained no damages and $15 was more to them than it was to me. I also had a brilliant day of riding excluding the accident of course. The twisting and windy roads of the Siddhartha Highway were incredibly fun, challenging and dangerous. I was cautious with my speed and control however, trucks and buses making blind corners gave me a few close calls even as I slowed down and honked repeatedly before my approach. Since I was on a 180cc road bike with no off-road experience, many stretches of the highway were challenging and made me anxious. In these stretches, the tarmac would disappear replaced by sand and stone. I would concentrate on navigating around big potholes and taking the least rocky path; all while avoiding traffic and worrying about my tires. After the first day, I was glad I went with a Japanese style shifting bike that I was used to (1 down, 4 up) rather than the heavy Royal Enfield which have a different setup with shifters located on the right side. I was thankful for having taken a motorcycle safety (basic riding) course since clutch control, obstacle riding and collision management were all important on Day 1 of my motorcycle tour.

After a night mostly awake hunting mosquitoes, I rode Petrova into the Lumbini conservation area. The rectangular walled area contains monasteries built by governments and Buddhist groups around the world. At the center of the UNESCO world heritage site, the Maya Devi temple encloses the exact spot where Queen Mayadevi gave birth to Siddhartha Gautama, commonly known as Buddha. My first stop was the Maya Devi temple. I circumnavigated the sacred grounds and witnessed the Faithfuls offer prayers at the Bodhi tree. Colourful prayer flags were hung all leading to the large and old sacred fig tree. A monk was leading a group through prayers in front of the Asokan pillar. Within the Maya Devi temple, worshipers circumnavigate a stone marking the exact birthplace of Lord Siddhartha. I bemusedly wonder to myself how accurate the marker is considering it's suppose to mark an event that took place more than 2500 years ago.

After a quick visit to the Zhong Hua Chinese Buddhist Monastery, a miniature and simpler version of the Forbidden City, I rode Petrova to the Vietnamese Monastery. According to my Lonely Planet Nepal (2006), the Vietnam Phac Quoc Tu Temple should've been finished in 2006. A sign posted on the outside said otherwise and evidently construction was still in progress. While I was stopped reading the sign, a monk spotted me through the gate and approached to explain visitors weren't allowed just yet. He then asked where I was from and I replied, "Canada." He then became very excited and expressed he studied at UBC and lived in B.C. for twenty years! After pausing for a second, he proceeded to ask me whether I wanted to take a quick 10 minute tour and I jumped on the chance and said yes. Although the complex was not complete, I could see it was very close to the projected completion date of July 2009. It was beautifully landscaped and the roof had detailed carvings of dragons. There was a beautiful pond and garden with replica cranes and one live one as well. In one of the ponds, there were steps leading to a platform shaped like Vietnam. The steps in the other one led to a water temple, according to the monk, similar but smaller than the one in Hanoi. I was then led up the steps to the main temple where pilgrims and visitors would pray. The intricate carvings of the deities were made in Hanoi and shipped to Lumbini. Adjacent to the temple was a new building which will act as hotel facilities for visitors when the complex is open. While I was in the main temple admiring the carvings of the deities, the friendly monk suggested I could offer my prayers for my family and friends. Not wanting to offend him and refuse his generosity by explaining to him I was an Atheist Secular Humanist, I put my palms together and thought of my family. I wished them all good health and attempted to telepathically convey my gratitude to them. I thought maybe I was too quick so I whispered "a mi tuo fo" and thought of my closest friends. I wished them all the best and my thanks for their friendships. I then said one final "a mi tuo fo" and thanked the monk for giving me such an opportunity. I was very fortunate to get an advanced tour of the temple and promised to tell me friends and family to visit.

The ride to Sauraha (a town by the Chitwan National Park) was longer than I expected. I had projected the duration to be four hours but instead it took five and a half. I had to ask for directions 7 times so no one can ever say I don't ask for directions (though I still believe if Christopher Columbus didn't need them, neither do I). My journey was supposed to be on highways and main roads yet for many stretches my tires were on rocks and sand which worried me greatly. On the upside, my riding skills both on and off-road have improved immensely. I had some real close calls on some of the passing and traffic today but that's just the norm in Nepal. I just hope my bad habits (such as honking at every moving thing to let them know my location) don't stay with me once I'm back in Canada!

I must say, even though I had some challenges and lost some money due to the accident described above, I truly enjoy motorcycle touring. Traveling by motorcycle makes me feel so much more in touch with the environment and at it's mercy. You're not confined within a cage or frame with glass separated with the world you wish to explore. Riding on the motorcycle, I was able to hear, smell and feel the places I visit and pass by. The motorcycle also allowed me to experience one example of Nepali courteousness. After getting some directions from an army highway outpost, I got confused once again and stopped by a market to ask for further directions. A local man expressed I had to keep going and turn left at some point. As I was getting to continue on in search of the illusive road to Sauraha off of the highway, he walked up to me and expressed he would show me the way and hopped-on the back of Petrova (no, I usually do not condone 2-men-up since I like to stick to a male-to-female ratio of 1:y, where y is greater than or equal to 1). After riding for about 20 seconds, the helpful local tapped me on my shoulder and pointed to the gate I was looking for. He then hopped off and after I thanked him "dhanyabad" he walked back.

For those of you with a strong sense of curiousity, I have a danger I must warn you about. Lonely Planet likes to include fun tidbits every now and then which are mostly harmless. That is not the case for the food section of Sauraha. After reading about a strange Dutch entree called Patatje Oorlog, I decided to order it (even though it was the most expensive thing on the menu). The combination of fries, onions, peanut butter and mayonnaise sounded interesting but it was far from good or even gastronomically edible. Even though I was famished and this was the first and my only meal of the day, I could not finish it. Lesson learned: never let my curiosity mix with LP food tidbits! Also, Dutch cuisine is going on my "Black" list.

Patatje Oordlog served!

That was disgusting, I couldn't even finish it and it was my only meal in 24 hours.

Written: February 3, 2009

While I love Wikis, specifically the site Wikitravel, they’re not exactly impervious to bias. The Wikitravel entry for Pokhara includes a line that states the city is “considered by many to be the most beautiful place in the whole wide world.” Pokhara, the second largest city in Nepal, is a lovely city situated by Phewa Tal Lake and surrounded by majestic mountains. After spending a few days there, it’s hard to disagree with that statement.

I left Varanasi at 6 pm for Sunauli. Staring out the window, I watched the hustle and bustle, the shops, the shanties and countless faces. My mind scrolled through all the sights and smells of India I captured, ones which could not be taken on camera, stored in my head. I thought of towns and villages zooming by on train rides. I thought of the innumerable small one-room shops with the shopkeepers looking back at you. I saw images of men standing in a group drinking chai, faces of kids looking back at you curiously. I saw a country quickly adapting and advancing technology. However, I also witnessed India’s sheer poverty and inequality. I’ve spoken to many travelers about India. While it is not my favourite country, my visit has been truly an eye opening and enriching experience for which I am thankful.

The bus ride to Sunauli was extremely bumpy and cold. The window beside my seat refused to stay closed. After two minutes of fully closing it, it would creep back down by 1 cm and after five minutes it would be down by 5 cm letting in a chilly stream of air. I wore my toque, windstopper, outer jacket and gloves yet I was still cold. The constant need to push my windows up and the cold prevented me from getting much sleep. Finally, we arrived to the Sunauli border stop at 4:30 am. Since it was pitch dark and we had no clue where the actual Indian-Nepali border offices were, we had to spend some time walking around and avoiding rickshawallas. Jeff, a Taiwanese guy I met on the bus, and I followed a Tibetan monk since we expected he would know the way. However, after 5 minutes we realized he had no idea and followed our instincts. After getting some directions from a jeep driver, we found the Indian customs office and waited an hour before it opened and a sleepy border guard gave us our exit stamp. After a short walk across the border into Nepal, within minutes, we got our entry visas and hopped on a bus for Pokhara.

Even though the bus ride from Sunauli to Pokhara was more scenic it was still a painful experience. The old creaky bus was crammed with passengers and, from the very start, there was a group of teenagers loudly laughing, talking and yelling throughout the long 9.5 hour trip. Additionally, the journey on the Siddhartha Nagar highway was dizzying, the traffic dangerous and the cliff drops a bit scary. At one point everyone in the bus looked over to the left side of the bus. I asked a passenger what he was looking at and after a pause, he hesitantly replied, “Accident.” A bus had gone over the edge and down the 100 metre cliff; it was impossible for anyone to survive that. I was glad I took a day bus instead of the notorious night buses for this scenic yet treacherous journey. Still, the combination of aggressive driving style, the lack of rails and the huge cliff drops right out my window made my stomach churn every now and then. One mistake or a faulty brake would easily send the bus over the edge and into all but certain death. We arrived in Pokhara at 4:30 pm after 9.5 hours but, perhaps due to my anxiety, I definitely felt like the trip was longer.

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After checking around, Jeff and I settled into different hotels before meeting up for dinner. I’m proud to boast that due to our aggressive bargaining skills he was able to score a double room with common shower/toilet for 120 NRs ($2 CND) and I paid 165 NRs ($2.5 CDN) for a double with hot shower/toilet per night. Both of our hotels were in Lakeside Central and I highly recommend people to go to Hotel Peace Horizon if they visit Pokhara. After settling in, we had dinner at the Rainbow Restaurant and Bar and I had a spaghetti bolognaise; the first time I had meat in 2.5 weeks and it was scrumptious. Pokhara would turn out to be a great place to feast and I went back to Rainbow quite a few times during my stay in the city. I spent the next day walking around the main touristy strip of Lakeside and its surrounding areas. Since Jeff was taking off for a trek in the Annapurna region the next day, we had a steak dinner at New Everest and the half-steak was filling and fantastic.

On my last day in Pokhara before taking off on motorcycle, I decided to hike up to the International Peace Pagoda. I took the scenic route to the pagoda, located on a narrow ridge overlooking Pokhara, by following the directions from Lonely Planet (LP). Finding my way was a challenge since LP’s directions were more of a loose guide. After hiking 1.5 hours through rice paddies, farmland and forested areas, I became somewhat worried about my lack of fitness and how I would fare on the Everest Base Camp (EBC) trek. I alleviated my concerns by realizing most of my anxiety centered on being lost, not knowing the direction and I would have enough time to take lots of breaks. I felt relieved and I rejoiced when I finally came upon the clearing in front of the pagoda. The view truly was amazing, the pagoda very beautiful and the trek well worth the effort. I sat to catch my breath and admired the snow-capped peaks surrounding Pokhara. I watched the hawks circle and surf the hot-air currents abundant above the hilly range. I wished I could do the same (which is possible in Pokhara, a pursuit called “hawk-assisted paragliding”).

International Peace Pagoda, Pokhara

Pokhara by Phewa Tal Lake

Machapuchare in the clouds

During my exploration of the pagoda, I saw a guy with a Team Canada shirt and a Canadian flag on his backpack. I approached him and said, “Can you make it any more obvious that you’re Canadian? Do you also have MEC gear?” I jokingly checked his backpack and ironically it was indeed a MEC bag with an oversize Canadian flag which he explained he got in his younger days for backpacking Europe. I chatted a bit with him and his girlfriend Danielle about India and Nepal. Another group of tourists nearby overheard us and humorously asked him, “Why?” when he said they were heading to India. I prepped them for the Indian experience by telling them my “toilet everywhere” story. I also met an Italian tourist who had recently done the EBC trek and he said it was great. With regards to the trek, he reassured me the lodges were open, it was not too painfully cold and that meeting other independent trekkers would be easy. Effectively, he took care of all my major concerns and made me even more excited about the trek with his enthusiastic description of excellent clear weather conditions.

Finally, after walking around inspecting the pagoda, which was a 3-tiered structure and had statues depicting Siddhartha’s major life events, I snapped a few pictures and made my way back to town. I had earlier considered taking the direct return route and paying for a boat ride back to Lakeside; however, after resting for a while and feeling more confident I would remember the way back I decided to hoof it and save a few dollars. I made it back to town in under 1 hour, took a relaxing hot shower before hitting Rainbow for some lasagna bolognaise. It was an early night for me since I needed to wake-up early to pack, rent a bike and start my motorcycle tour of Nepal. I had a hard time sleeping that night since I kept thinking of the windy roads, the big cliffs and the chaotic traffic. Though I was anxious, the excitement of such a trip outweighed all my concerns and I never back down from a challenge. I told myself: if I left Nepal without riding its challenging roads and explore its towns, I would regret it for the rest of my life.

See you in eight days Pokhara!