Thoughts of a Nomadic One

Written: September 20, 2007

I'm usually not a paranoid or anxious person. But after reading stories and warnings about pirate/kidnap taxis that rob/mug/steal from passengers, I was a bit on the edge. I think I get that side from my mom. After arriving at Ollyantambo, I hopped onto a bus expecting to leave immediately for the 2 hour ride back to Cuzco. I needed to be back early to catch some dinner and pick-up my luggage, then go to Terminal Terrestre to catch my bus to La Paz and my flight to Miami and home. I needed to be back home in time and get ready to start work Monday! If I missed any of those connections, I would be in trouble.

The bus didn't leave for 35 minutes due to 3 indecisive Japanese tourists and another bus blocking our path, unloading supplies from its rooftops. Honestly, nobody has ever heard me curse so much or so violently, chaining together as many swear words as possible. My heartbeat was elevated throughout the ride due to anxiety and altitude. Miraculously, I made it for the hostel dinner, picked up my bags and faced my greatest anxiety: the taxi to the bus station. After hearing stories of people driven to the middle of nowhere and then muggers jumping in to rob them, I was determined not to let that happen. I chose an official-looking taxi, confirmed the destination and fare, locked all doors. Throughout the ride, I was ready to unlock my door, open and roll out of it if it looked like I was getting out of town. When we passed through a deserted part of town, my heartbeat raced and I was totally ready but then I saw signs and recognized the way to the bus station.

1 more taxi ride to go.

The bus ride to La Paz was long and uneventful except for the border crossing. While this crossing took half as long as the Chile/Argentina one, it was more interesting because of its hilarity. Little boys with pens offer to help you with the 3-part crossing process (for a fee of course) and at one point I saw our driver give a bag of bread to the Bolivian guard who waved him through; that's how you get the express treatment. After walking back towards the bus on the Peru side after taking care of the Bolivian entrance visa, a Peruvian guard waved me into the guard house. "Oh man, here comes the bribe request", I thought. But I was mistaken, he checked through what I had in my pockets and money belt for narcotics and then thanked me, shook hands and waved me through, all without taking a sole! Unfortunately for the girls, I think their breasts were checked, for narcotics of course.

My last taxi ride from the bus terminal to the airport also gave my heart another workout. Halfway through the trip the driver indicated he needed more gas, turned off and went through some sketchy looking neighbourhoods looking for a pump. I felt suspicious and once again was in escape-ready mode. Fortunately, we didn't get much further out and he found a pump quickly. After a brief ride, I was at the airport.

Numerous posts ago in Krakow, I was with another Canadian who was on the last day of his his trip and I wondered how I would feel or how I would change? I thought of that again on the overnight bus.

How do I feel?

Anxious to get home, see family and friends. Anxious for clean machine washed clothes, my own bed/bathroom, familiar foods with stability are all things I look forward to. On the other hand, it's balanced out by fears: of monotony, stability, responsibility, relationships, mortgage, career.

How have I changed?

Other than being physically lighter and older, I am not sure how to answer that. Months ago in Palestine, my friend remarked that I was quieter, more contemplative and less anxious to please others. While that may have been how I looked at the time, that is a facet of my responsibility I've always had. One of my biggest issues has been how to unify my multi-faceted personalities and histories into my own identity. For so long, I have chosen to keep them mutually exclusive and nicely compartmentalized. In a way, this trip has helped me draw them together and be connected to my core identity. I have gained new perspectives on many issues especially many in my life.

I didn't go on this trip to seek a life altering experience or find the meaning of life. However, these past 4 months have shaped me. Other than being good at living cheap and having a good nose at not getting ripped off, I believe I've become more focused and aware. The diverse environments I have witnessed also gives me a more relativistic perspective on life. It's still too early to tell how this experience will mean to me in the grand journey of my life.

Though I may enjoy the stability and predictability of my life for the next few days, weeks, months or years. I do hope, perhaps in a little while, to be on the road, again.

Author's Note: There will be one more post to summarize my trip.

Written: September 19, 2007

Being at Machu Picchu feels like being in a distant land back in time and history, or a fantasy land. It didn't feel like that at first with the ridiculous legions of tourists each trying to snap as many pictures of the ruins and themselves. But as the afternoon wanes and crowds die down, the wonder and amazement sets in, especially as I write this sitting on a ledge overlooking the Inca city.

I arrived early from Cuzco to Aguas Calientes by a 4 hour train ride. After getting tickets and a bus ride, I entered Machu Picchu national park and feasted my eyes on the new World Wonder. Unfortunately, instead of doing the Inca Trail and arriving at dawn when the crowds of day trippers haven't arrived yet, my schedule only allowed me to do a day trip from Cuzco and in fact take the overnight bus to La Paz and fly out. This is the result of my extensions in Africa and New Zealand, unfortunate but not regrettable. It is truly amazing to see the structures and engineering work of the Incas constructed so long ago. Even in Cuzco you can see examples of their superior engineering compared to the Spanish. There is a joke from "The Motorcycle Diaries": In Cusqueña, there are two varieties of engineering: Inca or Incompetent.

I arrived at the Buenos Aires airport about 5 hours early. In that time, I entertained myself by looking at the prices of airport duty free goods and the beautiful Argentinian saleswomen. The only incident to note was that at one point, a Chinese kid came up and asked me whether I was Chinese.

Me: No, Canadian ... Taiwanese!
Him: Do you speak Mandarin?
Me: A little, why?
Him: Can you help me?

He and his friend were going to Caracas via Lima but their flight to Lima was overbooked. Since neither of them spoke Spanish or English, they were pretty useless and clueless. Using my limited Spanish, I helped them confirm that they were indeed leaving the next day. Two hours later, one of them found me resting and asked me to help translate again. However, this time there was Chinese dude, myself, another man (who spoke English and could translate)and the airline staff standing in a circle answering/asking questions. We probably looked like we were playing telephone.

What really pissed me off the most was the ineptitude of the 2 Chinese kids who traveled without any knowing Spanish or English. At one point one of them asked me, "How come they don't have Chinese translators?" I briskly replied, "Because English is the world language and you don't even know that!"

After sleeping in the Lima airport on the mat provided by London Heathrow Airport, I took a flight to Cuzco in the early morning. My eyes hurt but I wasn't sure if it was from tiredness or air pollution. I spent half the day running around to get tickets to Machu Picchu and ensure that I arrive in La Paz in time to fly home. I then spent the rest of the day getting familiar with Cuzco and going to bed early. Unfortunately, the headache I was developing from altitude sickness assaulted me all night and it was only after chugging 1L of water and 2 ibuprofens later that I felt better. Being at 2500m really takes it out of you. Your body feels tingly and you get out of breath really quickly. It was also discouraging and humorous to see see the locals just strolling or running the steep roads.

Cuzco is amazing. Even with all the tourists, you can't help but feel transported back in time. Locals wear their distinctly patterned Alpaca-wool made clothes. Some of the older women wear Bowler hats on top of their braids. This tradition originated when a European shipment of Bowler hats were given to locals since they were too small. I didn't get to take a lot of pictures but was greatly reminiscent of the end credit scenes of The Motorcycle Diaries.

In Cuzco, I walked around the Inca walls, the 12-sided stone, checked out the cathedral that had a very interesting version of The Last Supper. I suppose even religion isn't above advertisements as a big juicy cuy (Guinea pig) was the centerpiece. Imagine the captions: "Jesus goes to Casa Mama and has cuy with his mates when he celebrates! Where do YOU go?"

Headed to La Paz tonight and then flying home. Only 3 more taxi rides away from safety!

Ciao!

Written: Sept 16, 2007

I woke up at 2:43 AM to the sound of snoring and occasional shifting. I was on a semi-cama bus going the 14 hour trip from Mendoza to Buenos AIres. I´d left the day before on a Tur semi-cama bus from Santiago to Mendoza, a 7 hour trip including 2.5 hours at the border for customs. That trip was comfortable due to the ample legroom, semi pullout and the fact that the only spare seat in the bus was the one beside me. I was worried that I'd have to spend the night in Mendoza if I arrived too late and the ticket sales agent in Santiago was useless at explaining anything. I immediately went to the Tur bus counter after picking up my bags in Mendoza and got the bad news: No bus to Buenos Aires tonight, I then went to talk to CATA, none tonight as well but a 7 AM. I dejectedly paid $39 USD for it before looking at my map for a hostel since the station would close at 1 AM; disallowing me from camping at the estacion for the night. However, before I left the station, I passed a double decker "El Rapido" bus with the sign "B.Aires". It looked full but I had to ask. The driver saw me approach and a attendant came out.
Thankfull, I knew some basic spanish.

Me: Asto libre?
Him: Si, uno.
Me: A que hora sale el autobus?
Him: A hora!
Me: Cuanto cuesta?
Him: Cien pesos.
Me: Dolares Americano?
Him: Treinta y cinco.
Me: (pause for 3 seconds) Okay.

After taking my bags, he showed me to the only seat available in the whole bus beside a very annoyed looking woman in a white coat. THis bus was drastically different being a double decker, dirtier and a lot noisier with people drinking. I had barged in on a party uninvited and taken someone's joy away; it was a rough start. However, thankfullu I took SPAN 010 because things would change for the better. Although I was kicking myself for paying $39 extra for a common ticket, it was worth getting to Buenos Aires early. Also, as soon as I sat down, I heard "japonais" being whispered an that's when I replied, "No estoy Japonais. Yo estoy Canadiense!" The girl next to me then turned and said, "Ah you speak English?" Within minutes after some conversations about where I was from, I was offered a beer by the gyu in front of me, some pineapple juice by the girl in white coat, chips from the guy across the aisle and an invite to visit someone in northern highland Peru. The girl next to me was a tour guide in Peru and the only one who spoke good English. She explained to me that they were all Peruvians coming from all over Peru going to Buenos Aires as tourists. Now I am not sure what everybody thinks of Peru, but I thought that except for the select few rich people, Peruvians were generally poor and perhaps uncouth. However, sitting there in the early hours of the morning, I realized it was the other way around; it was in fact them who were rich in friends, family and company, food and generosity and I who was poor, with nothing to share except my gratitude and appreciation.

After arriving from Easter Island to Santiago, I bought a ticket to Mendoza fom the useless man behind the counter and then checked into a nice hotel/guesthouse where I got agood single for $14. I then walked about before having a $2 USD dinner with the locals; a bottle of coke and 2 completos (hot dogs smothered with avocado sauce and mayo). Eating them were quite tricky as I didn't want to make a mess or leave sauces all over my mouth after everybite, like a milk mustache or worse for those with their minds in the gutter. I observed the locals and settled on just shoveling it horizontally and biting. I then caught up on travel blogs at an internet cafe for $1.25/hr.

After walking around for half the day, I went to catch my bus to Mendoza. While on the bus, I watched the baggage man, an old balding man wih a blue overcoat, carefully analyze and place passengers' luggages in the 2 small compartments. He was a specialist and did it for our bus as well as the other ones beside ours. I realized that he and I were in fact quite similar. While I use mathematics and engineering to analyze and design, he performs the same tasks with luggages and compartment spaces.
In a way, we both seek to find order in chaos.

===

After checking into the hostel and taking a shoer, i explored Buenos Aires. I visited the Palace of Congress, the Casa Rosa (Presidential Palace where Evita addressed the people) and then walked around Av. Florida to scout potential deals. While I saw some things I liked, the only thing I bought was $0.75 steak sandwich (chorripan) that was heavenly. I also treated myself to a great dinner at La Mejor Parillada de Argentina where I had a lomo de biftek, big bottle of beer and helados mixte (like gelato). It only cost me $15 and was quite a steal!

I will be heading to Lima where I will spend the night in the airport instead of venturing out at 11 PM into the kidnapping capital of the world and then fly to Cuzco at 5:40 AM.

Hopefully the connetion to La Paz won't be too bad and I will stay safe in Peru and Bolivia.

Less than 1 week!

I tried very hard not to vomit.
I did so in order to keep my dignity and not offend the gas pump attendant who had offered me this piece of jerky that I was having so much trouble with. While waiting for the automobile ahead of me to get filled up, he pointed at the jerky he was holding and said, "Horse meat", then offered it to me. My first instinct was to smile and say, "No gracias." But then, I remembered my mantra whenever I confront something dangerous or something I fear: "Do it. Find the courage later." I think I heard it from a Canadian Olympian. In the spirit of trying new things and confronting my fears, I accepted his offer the second time. I took the jerky and chewed off a piece, expecting it to taste similar to regular jerky or chicken. The attendant looked at me for a while, smiled and then turned back to his duties. And that is when the taste and the realization that I was eating horse meat hit me. I could picture, in my mind, one of the many horses I had seen while mopeding around earlier turn and look at me to say, "Why are you eating me? Isn't it bad enough that people ride us?" That's when I started gagging, there was a definite probability that I would vomit right there but I was determined to save my dignity and not offend the attendant. He turned to look back at me, I immediately tried to look as if I enjoyed it though I probably looked like I was wincing and he asked, "Good huh?"
I smiled weakly in reply and quickly dropped the remaining piece of horse meat that was terrorizing my existence into the helmet compartment and hit it under. I then tried to spit out the remaining offending taste in my mouth, paid, thanked him and drove off.

After watching Ocean's 13, Pirates of the Carribeans 3, I arrived in Santiago from Auckland, an 11 hour flight. I then had to pay the ridiculous $132 USD reciprocacy entrance VISA. This is due to the fact that Canada, along with the US, UK, Australia, slapped an entrance visa for Chilenos. I could've avoided it if I had gone to Buenos Aires and overlanded into Santiago but it would've cost me an extra flight anyways. However, next time coming from North America, I'd go to Buenos Aires first. I then waited for a few hours before my 5 hour flight back towards where I came from to Easter Island.

After some price comparison, I got a single room, double bed, private bathroom for $16 USD instead of $20 a night.

Day 1: Explored the town of Hanga Roa, Ahu Tepai and a few surrounding Moais. Used some internet and got some moped rental quotes.

DAy 2: Rented a moped for 8 hours to explore the whole island. I first went to the huge crater of Rano Kau which was awesome since it was filled with water and situated next to the sea. THen I went to the park ranger to pay my $10 USD entrance fee but since they didn't have change for my 10 000 pesos they just waved me in to the Orongo village. I think it was also because one of the ranger and I spoke some French when he found out I was Canadian.

The village was pretty cool since it was situated on a peninsula between the sea and the crater. there werehouses built of stcked slabs of rocks half submerged into the ground. There was also an area where ceremonies were held and the petroglyphs in the rocks. This was where ceremonies were held for the Birdman of the Year. I then sped my way along the south coast, stopping at various Moai and caves to check them out. The landscape was lush green and it was a beautiful day for riding. The highlight was definitely Rano Raku, this was the great hill where Moais were quarried and you cn see many of them there of different sizes and expressions. I took many pictures and entertained myself by imagining the conversations they could've had. I then visited the most impressive and famous Moai of the whole island, Ahu Tongariki, before spending some time at the beach of Anakena and speeding back to Hanga Roa.

Just dreaming and looking at the sky.

Moai 1: Who invited Steve?
Moai 2: That dude's a !$!%
Moai Steve: I just want to be friends!

Moai 1: Yay grass!
Moai 2: What an idiot.

Day 3: Payed back more of the principal and interest on my sleep debt accrued in New Zealand. Then I looked around the shops and bought some postcards to send. Also got my passport stamped with Easter Island - Rapa Nui ones for $1.50. Spent the siesta hours at Ahu Tahei reflecting on many things. a lot of them were the adventures, experiences and people I've met on my trip. But more importantly was on the people and memories of my life before my trip, I thought about friends I missed, people that had been good friends at some point but grown apart for stupid reasons or none at all. I regret not having tried harder or how trivial some of those reasons seem now. I know I am a stubborn man and I guess it took 4 months of traveling alone and a tiny island 5 hours away from any continent to put some things into perspective.

Finished reading "Empire of the Sun" and off to Santiago!

Written: September 9, 2007

Sitting here on the Auckland-Santiago flight listening to "Video Killed the Radio Star" from the album "20 of the Greatest Hits from the Decade of Excess: PURE 80's" , I thought of how much fun the last few days have been and how funny things can change in life.

So I was feeling a bit down after leaving Rotorua and Auckland didn't help much either. I arrived and rented a cheap compact car for 3 days for $90 NZD (which is actually cheaper than renting it for 2 days). Auckland is just like any other big cities except it's strange for New Zealand being such a small sparsely populated country. The highlight was finding a food court that had a Taiwanese foodstall where I ordered some delicious beef noodles and had pudding milk tea.

I spent some time trying to catch-up on my travel blogs at the internet cafe and then went back to the hostel. I thought a drink at the hostel bar would be nice but it was closed. I dejectedly went to the lounge and watched some Family Guy with a group of people that I wasn't quite trying to socialize with. However, before I left for bed, the guy who sat beside me and I started chatting and I told him I was going north to Bay of Islands and Cape Reinga tomorrow. He said, "Okay. I'll go with you" and that's how Philip from Rotterdam, Holland joined on board. Sweet, 1 more person to share the costs.
The next morning, he came down and said, "Want one more person? There's an Irish girl who'd like to go." I thought, sure, one more person to share the costs and more company. And that's how Julia Cherry (the cool one, not the other one who's a tosser according to her) joined us.
This worked out perfectly since she drives on the left and her and Philip could use the car for the extra day since I would have to return it within 2 days as I was flying out. It also worked out because the car was a manual and I'd never driven manual. I would later get some lessons in Paihia in the Bay of Islands but I didn't get much chance to practice since the road were windy and hilly requiring more intermediate gear shifting.

The 3 of us stuffed our bags into the drunk and seats and left for Paihia. Though it took some time to get out of Auckland, the drive was smooth. In Paihia, we got some info and did a small hike to a lookou point where we could see the town and Russell. The area has historical significance since it was the oldest settled area and Russell was what Charles Darwin described as "the refuse of society." It was a lawless place composed of convicts, prostitutes, sailors and whalers.

For the evening, we had opted for the $12 NZD BBQ + Pint. But we also went to the liquor store where I introdocued some Canadian customs/traditions to my new Dutch and Irish friend in the form of the Rye Train. Canadian Club and Scheppes Ginger Ale. They were hesitant at first but once that sweet delicious liquit hit their lips they were converted. All in all, it was a good night except for losing 2 games to 1 in tightly fought games of Speed with Julia.

The next day Dan from Toronto joined us on our trip up to Cape Reinga. He had the bad luck of coming to NZ for 2 weeks with his ex since they booked when they were still together making the double they shared an awkward affair. We first visited a Kauri forest and Kaitai to get sandboard. The small city was interesting for its Dalmatian (region of the northwest Balkan Peninsula on the Adriatic Sea in present-day Croatia, not the dog) and Maori population. The signs welcoming us into Kaitaia greeted us with "Dobro dosli" and "Haere Mai".
We were going to have lunch at a cafe but instead found the whole town watching kids race carts down a street. It was there that we found $2 scallpps and $1.5 sausages which was quite a steal as well as a very entertaining race.

After leaving Kaitaia, we stopped at Rarawa beach for the white silica sands and then to the sand dunes at Te Paki. I can't truly describe how strange it is to se these massive sand dunes, that could easily belong in the Sahara, situated between a lush green forest and the sea.

We took our sandboards which were essentially plastic toboggans and started climbing up in order to get a better view and scout for potential tracks. The climb was steep and more strenuous than I thought and required the use of the toboggan as a digger on the way up. But after a few climbs, a trek and some sweat, the view afforded was captivating. I had run ahead of the group seeking for a distinct dune overlooking the ocean. When I got there, I realized it was the tallest dune with unobstructed view of the ocean. It would be a while before the other 3 reached me and I sat down on my tobogan at the top of the dune looking out, contemplating.

Naturally, like many conscious beings staring at the ocean, I tried to picture its vastness. I tried to imagine all the unkown that lay beneath.
How much its given and how much its taken?
How complex and how simple it is?
How angry and kind can it be?
In a sense, the 3 regions could be a metaphor for life.
The forest, an area of nice and sheltered life full of energy and nurture, representative of infancy and growing up.
The sand dunes, a period of dramatic ups and downs, seeking independence, adventure and exploration, representative of young adulthood and its growing pains.
Finally, the vast ocean with its endless questions and possibilities. it is full of predictabilities and unpredictabilities. Like life, it just depends on what kind of person you are. Will you stay safe on the shore or in shalow water looking out and wondering about the "What ifs?" Or will you take it b ythe horns and sail out to meet it. Some never take that chance and some do, though it may take a while, like the Old Man and the Sea.

We found a nice steep face to have our introductory run. The 1st run I almost hit Dan who was in front of me since it was hard to navigate with the ropes provided. We did a few more runs before I sttled on using the handles on the side. We then took a few runs on other dunes before realizing we needed to head to Cape Reinga soon. We soon tackled the highest and steepest face we could see for the rea. I had a modest run since my right handle had broken which made steering impossible. After some convincing by Julia who waned to do it again, 3 of us climbed up again and this time I switched sandboards and had an exhilarating one. The timing was perfect since it started to rain by the time we got to Cape Reinga, the northermost tip of NZ. After 3.5 weeks, I had gone to the southernmost, centre and northermost tip of mainland NZ.

I've definitely fallen in love with the land and have a soft spot for the Kiwis. They are friendly, kind and more modest and reserved than the Aussies. They are a great bunch of people and incredibly conscious of their actions to other people and their environment. As a multicultural nation of travellers themslves, they've really made it easy to travel their beautiful land of Aotearoa. From well signed info centres and public washrooms, backpacker deas, knowledgeable and friendly staff, locals , these all contribute to a great travelling experience in New Zealand. And of course, the pristine beauty of the land is mind-blowing.

We arrived at the Monganui Fish & Chips 3 minutes before they closed. This was fortunate as they were some of the best fish I've ever had (1st being in Kaikoura). Took a while to wash off all the sand in all the places of my body and then had more Rye and Ginger and beer with the Rugby game (All Blacks vs. Italy, 47-7 by half-time) before bed. We went to the Waitangi centre where the signing of the Treaty took place. There was also the Treaty House, Meeting Place and Te Whare (war canoe). We then made the journey back toward Auckland were I got dropped ff at the airport.

Earlier, I was saying it's funny how life works out. One moment I am about to go to bed. The next I've got someone else coming along. Then another because she got woken up by someone in her room to her displaeasure and was eating breakfast and chatted to Philip before being convinced, packed and went. She had just arrived from South America and didn't even have a guide book (which she would from me since I didn't need it anymore and it had my notes/corrections). Then she met Dan from Toronto at breakfast the next day and he came with us and was thankful since he was considering going back to Auckland.

Life sure is full of unpredictabilities, just like the sea.

===

P.S. I might've been out of my mind when I tried to explain the similes between the forest, sand dunes and the sea with life haha. Also, I read "The Old Man and the Sea" at a bookstore in Singapore in 2 hours. Great book.